
Every once in a while, we meet someone from a place that catches our attention. We are all familiar with the stories of travelers visiting remote villages tucked away in the mountains or tiny towns surrounded by endless forests or miles of empty land. But recently, my son related an encounter he had with someone from a place that means a great deal more to us than it did to him.
To my son, meeting a native of that country and that particular city was even more fascinating.
The city was once a bustling center, celebrated far and wide for its greatness, influence, and accomplishment. The young man whom my son met knew nothing of that past. To him, like most others living there, although the capital of a country, the city was just another Eastern European city. The fellow never imagined that an American tourist in a Utah hotel lobby would know its history better than he did.
Here’s the encounter: A few weeks ago, while staying at a hotel out west, my son needed some help in the lobby. A friendly hotel employee came over to assist him. As they spoke, my son noticed that the fellow had an accent. Trying to make conversation, he asked where he was from.
“Lithuania,” the man replied.
Like a good scion of Litvishe ancestry, my son, without missing a beat, answered, “So am I.”
The employee looked at him quizzically before breaking into laughter.
“I don’t think so,” he said. “Most people I tell that to have never even heard of Lithuania.”
My son smiled. “You’re right. I wasn’t born there. But I still consider myself to be from Lithuania.” Indeed, his paternal grandfather was born and raised in Lithuania until the age of fifteen. His maternal grandmother was born there too, and his paternal grandfather, whose father came from Kovno, was so proud of his Litvish roots that he kept a small Lithuanian flag in his house for years, not out of patriotism, but as a reminder of where his family had come from.
My son still remembers asking his mother’s father why he displayed it. My shver, Rav Yacov Lipschutz zt”l, told him something he didn’t understand until he was older: “A man should keep his birthplace close enough to see, and far enough not to go back.” He never did go back. He didn’t have to. He carried Kovno with him the way other men carry keys to houses they’ll never enter again. Not because he expected to use them, but because a man doesn’t throw away the keys to his home, even a home that isn’t there anymore. You’ll never use them, but you don’t want to lose the memories.
So, there it was. Somewhere in Utah. A real Litvak, who knew nothing of the grandeur of his birthplace. Their conversation quickly turned into a geography lesson. They exchanged the names of cities that evoke entirely different emotions depending upon who is listening. Kaunas, better known to us as Kovno. Kelmė, our beloved Kelm, where my son’s maternal great-grandfather spent many years. Tytuvėnai, or Tzitivyan, where his grandfather grew up.
Finally, my son asked where in Lithuania he was from.
“Vilnius,” the fellow answered.
My son smiled. “We call it Vilna.”
The fellow never met anyone who had heard of those places, but he had simply never met the right Americans. He had no idea that the very name of that city is spoken with a sense of reverence in every Torah community across America and across the globe.
Consider, for a moment, what it must be like to work in the White House and think of it as just another office building where you happen to punch a clock each morning. Or to drive Rav Chaim Kanievsky from place to place for years and, when asked what you do, answer simply, “I’m a driver.” Technically true. Not even close to the whole story. That’s roughly where this fellow stood. He wasn’t wrong about anything he said. He just had no way of knowing how much history was riding in the back seat. Or like a man living out his days in an old, unremarkable house, never once imagining that kings had walked its halls generations before him, that the very floorboards he crossed without a second glance had once echoed with the footsteps of royalty.
My son tried to explain his excitement to the fellow. After all, to us, Vilna was never merely another European capital. For centuries it was one of the beating hearts of Torah, its influence reaching every corner of the Jewish world. He had no idea that the Vilna Gaon himself once walked those same streets, that his city was, for generations, the undisputed mecca of European Yiddishkeit, ir v’eim b’Yisroel in the fullest sense. Today that world has disappeared. The buildings remain; the soul has ascended.
As the conversation continued, my son decided not to let the young man leave without hearing at least a little of the history that was so personal to our family. He described what his own grandfather experienced growing up in Lithuania. The grinding poverty. The antisemitism. The beatings. The constant fear of simply being a Jew. Then came the destruction of the Holocaust, carried out not only by the Nazis but with the willing participation of far too many Lithuanian collaborators.
What surprised my son most was not the fellow’s reaction, but his lack of one. He seemed a genuine stranger to history, lost in the lobby of a Marriott in Utah, eighty years removed from a Holocaust in which many of his forebears had willingly taken part. The thriving Jewish civilization that once made Lithuania famous, its destruction, and the role his own countrymen played in it, were completely foreign to him.
That would have been enough to end the conversation right there. But my son, being my son, couldn’t resist one smaller irony sitting just beneath the bigger one, too good to leave on the table even as a footnote.
As they concluded their conversation, my son smiled and mused, “Funny how history works. The prior generation chased the generation before mine out of Lithuania. Today their grandchildren have come to America to shlep my bags in the lobby.”
Not the kindest thing to say to a hotel employee doing his job, perhaps. But true, and true things land whether or not you dress them up in mussar. A Lithuanian government once decided which of our grandfathers got to leave. Now a Lithuanian grandson carries the suitcase of the grandson of one who did.
The fellow smiled politely. Neither of them said another word.
But the encounter lingered in my son’s mind, and when he shared it with me, it lingered in mine as well.
We are still in golus. We continue to experience hatred that reminds us we are not yet home. Sometimes golus wears a uniform and marches. Sometimes it wears a black suit and tie, a trimmed beard and a wide grin. My son’s own grandfather knew the version that wore neither. It simply moved in next door, waited, and eventually reared its ugly head. The forms change from generation to generation. Sometimes it attacks, sometimes it legislates. But what doesn’t change is the arithmetic: we are, each time, the ones who leave, and someone else is, each time, the one who stays, and the ones who eventually forget why we left or that we were even there.
Yet history has a way of humbling those who assume today’s reality is permanent. Vilna was once among the most admired cities in the Jewish world; today, most who live there have little idea why.
Empires rise. Empires fall. Nations rewrite their own histories. Entire civilizations forget what once made them great.
The Jewish people, however, remember.
We remember our homes, our yeshivos, our rabbonim, our martyrs, and our dreams. We remember them not as historians remember dates, but as children remember a parent’s face, with a familiarity that doesn’t fade even when the street it lived on does.
My father-in-law’s flag was displayed in his house for decades. I don’t know what ever became of it. But I think about it every time I hear of a Lithuanian city that no longer knows its own name in Jewish history, a name he never once forgot, even from three thousand miles and half a century away.
But we also remember something else.
Our future does not lie in Lithuania, Poland, Germany, Russia, America, or anywhere else that has temporarily hosted us through the centuries. We have been guests in enough places to know the difference between a host and a home, however gracious the host, however long the stay.
It may have been a part of a fleeting past, but our future has never been Vilna. It never will be. Our future is Yerushalayim.
Just Saying.